How I got better at Photography

Common camera parameters and their meanings:
1. Focal Length
- Definition: Focal length is the distance (usually in millimeters) between the lens and the image sensor when the subject is in focus. It determines the field of view (how much of the scene you can capture) and how “zoomed in” or “zoomed out” the image appears.
- Impact:
- Shorter focal lengths (e.g., 18mm): Wider field of view, ideal for landscapes or group shots.
- Longer focal lengths (e.g., 200mm): Narrower field of view, ideal for portraits or distant subjects.
- Examples:
- Wide-angle: 18mm, 24mm.
- Standard: 50mm.
- Telephoto: 100mm, 200mm.
2. ISO
- Definition: ISO refers to the sensitivity of the camera’s image sensor to light. The higher the ISO value, the more sensitive the sensor is, allowing for better performance in low light.
- Impact:
- Lower ISO (e.g., 100 or 200): Less noise, better image quality in bright conditions.
- Higher ISO (e.g., 1600 or 3200): More noise (graininess) but better performance in low-light environments.
- Note: You generally want to use the lowest ISO possible to avoid introducing noise into your photos.
3. Exposure
- Definition: Exposure refers to the amount of light that hits the camera’s sensor. It’s controlled by three key elements: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. The right exposure ensures your image isn’t too bright (overexposed) or too dark (underexposed).
- Impact:
- Overexposure: The image is too bright, and you lose detail in highlights.
- Underexposure: The image is too dark, and you lose detail in shadows.
- Control:
- Aperture: Controls how much light enters through the lens (larger aperture = more light).
- Shutter Speed: Controls how long the sensor is exposed to light (longer shutter speed = more light).
- ISO: Controls sensor sensitivity (higher ISO = more sensitivity).
In photography, EV stands for Exposure Value. It is a numerical representation of the amount of light that hits the camera’s sensor or film, helping to standardize exposure settings. EV is a combination of two key factors: aperture (f-stop) and shutter speed, and sometimes the ISO setting is considered as well.
- Higher EV numbers indicate a brighter exposure (more light), which corresponds to larger apertures (smaller f-numbers), slower shutter speeds, or higher ISO settings.
- Lower EV numbers indicate a darker exposure (less light), corresponding to smaller apertures (larger f-numbers), faster shutter speeds, or lower ISO settings.
In practice, EV can be used to calculate exposure settings, especially when comparing different lighting conditions, and many cameras display the EV value in their metering system to assist photographers in achieving the desired exposure.
In addition, an EV range is sometimes used to describe the dynamic range of a camera or sensor, which indicates the range of brightness levels the camera can capture, from dark shadows to bright highlights.
4. Color Temperature
- Definition: Color temperature refers to the warmth or coolness of the light in a photo. It is measured in Kelvin (K). Different light sources have different color temperatures, affecting how colors appear in your image.
- Impact:
- Warm light: Appears yellow or orange (like sunlight or candlelight), typically around 2,000K to 3,000K.
- Cool light: Appears blue (like daylight or overcast skies), typically around 5,000K to 6,500K.
- Control: Most cameras have white balance settings to adjust for different lighting conditions (e.g., daylight, tungsten, fluorescent) to ensure accurate colors in the image.
By adjusting these parameters, you can control how your photos look, balancing things like light, color, and detail in both bright and dark environments.
For a night shot, you’ll want to adjust your camera settings to properly expose the image while managing the lower light conditions. Here’s a guide for achieving good results in low-light situations:
1. ISO
- Increase ISO: In low light, you need to make the camera sensor more sensitive to light, so a higher ISO is essential. Start with an ISO of 800 to 1600. If your camera can handle higher ISO without introducing too much noise, you can try values like 3200 or even 6400. Be cautious, as higher ISO can introduce grain or noise in the image.
- Tip: Test different ISO values and check the image quality to find a balance between light sensitivity and noise.
2. Shutter Speed
- Use a Slow Shutter Speed: A slower shutter speed (longer exposure time) allows more light to hit the sensor, making it ideal for night photography. Try shutter speeds of 1/30s to 1/60s for handheld shots, or slower if you’re using a tripod (e.g., 1/5s, 1s, or longer).
- Important: If you’re shooting handheld, keep in mind that too slow of a shutter speed can introduce camera shake, resulting in blurry images. Use a tripod or stable surface for longer exposures.
3. Aperture
- Wide Aperture (Low f-number): Use a larger aperture (lower f-number, like f/2.8 or f/1.8) to allow more light to pass through the lens. This is especially helpful when photographing subjects in low-light conditions.
- Tip: If your lens can open wide (e.g., f/1.4, f/1.8, or f/2.8), use that to maximize light intake.
4. White Balance / Color Temperature
- Set Correct White Balance: Night shots often have varying light sources (streetlights, neon signs, etc.), which can give a yellow or orange cast. Adjust the white balance to match the lighting conditions.
- For tungsten lights (street lamps, indoor lights), you might use the “Tungsten” white balance setting to reduce the warm tones and cool the image.
- If you’re shooting under streetlights or artificial light with a cool tone, you might need to use the “Daylight” or “Custom” white balance settings.
- Tip: You can also adjust the color temperature manually to get the desired mood.
5. Focal Length
- Wide-Angle Lens (if applicable): If you’re shooting landscapes or cityscapes at night, using a wide-angle lens (like 18mm or 24mm) will allow you to capture more of the scene with sharper focus.
- Telephoto Lens: For focusing on distant subjects (like the moon or distant buildings), a telephoto lens (e.g., 100mm or 200mm) will help bring them into view.
6. Use a Tripod
- Minimize Camera Shake: If you’re using slower shutter speeds (e.g., 1s or longer), a tripod is essential to avoid camera shake and blurriness. Even slight movements can ruin long exposures, so stability is key.
- Tip: If you don’t have a tripod, try using a stable surface like a wall or table to rest your camera on.
7. Additional Tips for Night Photography
- Experiment with Longer Exposures: For light trails (e.g., from cars or stars), try very long exposures (several seconds to minutes). This will capture movement and light in the scene.
- Use Manual Focus: Autofocus can struggle in low light, so try using manual focus to ensure your subject is sharp.
- Consider a Remote Shutter Release: If you’re using long exposures, avoid pressing the shutter button manually, as it can introduce shake. Use a remote or the camera’s timer function to minimize this.
Example Settings for Night Photography
- ISO: 1600 to 3200 (depending on your camera’s low-light performance).
- Aperture: f/2.8 or as wide as your lens allows.
- Shutter Speed: Start at 1/30s or longer, adjusting as necessary based on the light in your scene.
- White Balance: Tungsten (for warm streetlights) or Daylight, depending on the light sources in your shot.
- Focal Length: Wide-angle (18mm to 50mm) for landscapes, longer for zooming in on specific subjects.
By experimenting with these settings, you should be able to capture crisp, well-lit night shots, whether you’re photographing the cityscape, stars, or low-light portraits.